Find The Component Of A In The B Direction Formula Home-Lighting: Upgrading to LED Made Easy

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Home-Lighting: Upgrading to LED Made Easy

Assume I am already enlightened about the benefits of LED (Light Emitting Diode) lighting. Very interested, I have made up my mind to upgrade my house lighting to LED soon. I am willing to pay for the high initial costs of LED lighting products. But before I buy, the first question that comes to mind is what power of light to choose for the light/use I have. Then, I start wondering if I can easily retrofit my new LED lights to existing electrical fixtures in my home. Since I’m not sure, I try to find out by searching (maybe) ‘how to migrate to LED lighting’ from the internet. While I get some useful answers, I also get many new terms that I know little about such as ‘diode’, ‘semiconductor’, ‘photon’, ‘lumen’, ‘CRI’, ‘CCT’ and so on. My lack of knowledge makes me unsure of myself, so I start thinking, ‘Can I safely ignore the new terms and proceed?’. ‘If I do, will my LED project succeed?’

Don’t worry – these are common obstacles we all run into. But before you decide to hire a consultant, read the solutions presented in this article. You know, after reading, you will realize that you really don’t need to!

Problem 1 – Determining Equivalence lead Lighting by Power in Watts:

Manufacturers are increasing this information on cartons of LED bulbs and tubes with phrases such as ’40 watt equivalent’, ’60 watt replacement’ etc. So in many instances this problem can be treated as ‘already solved’. If not, use one of these methods to determine whether the LED light’s power rating is equivalent to any of your current non-LED lights:

(A) Calculate proportionality using rule-of-thumb: 70W Incandescent=50W Halogen=18W CFL=15W LED.

Caution: This method will not produce sufficient results to enable you to safely purchase/install LED products. It only gives you a fairly accurate value; which should be used in emergency situations. It can also help you make accurate guesses, once you’ve used it. Here’s an example: You need to replace a 100W incandescent bulb with an LED. This rule-of-thumb will show you a 22W LED bulb (ie by calculation, 100/70 * 15, with the decimal being rounded-up to the next higher whole number). The exact LED power required is 27 W, so that the result is lower by 5W (about -19%). But you can make a good guess at this point because the LED power rating can only take certain standard values ​​like 7W,11W,14W and 27W. Since you have to estimate starting from the approximate value of 22W, you would choose 27W instead of 14W, because 22 is closer to 27 than 14.

(B) Switch to thinking in terms of Lumens(lm): This method is easy and highly recommended. However, you may need to change your thinking a little – think in terms of ‘lumens’ (or brightness) rather than ‘watts’.

When we say ‘an equivalent light source’, we mean a source that produces the same luminance (or brightness) as the one being replaced. The unit of measurement for light intensity is the ‘lumen’ (lm) (note: to get an idea of ​​lumen power, remember that a single, burning wax candle produces about 13 lm of light). Measuring the amount of brightness in terms of lm is the straight-forward way to do this, while it’s about watts, from a lighting designer’s point of view. Aside from being indirect, wattage is not a standard measurement across different lighting types as each has the same number of lm produced. Watt’s, not the same. Therefore, a strong recommendation to adopt the practice of thinking in terms of lumens rather than watts for future lighting applications.

The lists below are lm based and you can use them directly to read the equivalent watts of LED power you need for a given number of lumens:

450 / 40 (I) /9-13 (CFL)/ 4-5 (LED)

800 / 60 (I)/13-15 (CFL)/ 6-8 (lead)

1100 /75 (I)/18-25 (CFL)/ 9-13 (lead)

1600 /100 (I)/23-30 (CFL)/ 16-20 (LED)

I = Incandescent, CFL = Compact Fluorescent Light, LED = Light-Emitting Diode

Note: The above statistics are taken from the US government’s Department of Energy website, energy.gov

Problem 2 – Retrofitting:

Since LED lighting products are standardized, retrofitting is usually complicated. However, if (i) the new LED product(s) do not fit the existing sockets or (ii) the existing sockets are so worn out that they must be replaced or (iii) you are not sure how to do it, play it. Protect by purchasing LED retrofit kits. These kits include all components, diagrams and step-by-step instructions to help you install your LED lights safely and correctly.

Problem 3 – Remember to use good quality LEDs:

The impressive longevity of LED lighting (on the order of 25,000 hours, we’ve read) is one of its most highly valued properties. One of the most important factors responsible for longevity is the quality of the LED chips used. So, don’t be tempted to buy from little-known manufacturers who, of course, offer attractive, low-cost options. Insist on buying from established vendors such as Cree, Philips, Feet Electric, GE and so on, even at significantly higher price(s) to ensure longevity.

Problem 4 – Find out what is the value of ‘CRI‘ to use:

CRI is an abbreviation of ‘Color Rendering Index’. It measures the ability of a light source to render or illuminate all colored objects equally faithfully. Not all light sources are capable of this. LEDs are among the worst of contemporary lighting technologies in terms of color rendering, while incandescent bulbs are a good example of such ideal or ‘perfect’ light sources.

CRI can take a value between 0 and 100. A ‘perfect’ light source is assigned a CRI of 100.

From the above, it is clear that the higher the CRI value, the better. Therefore, when choosing LED lamp(s), pick the ones with the highest CRI value. Also, use a lower cut-off limit of CRI=80.

Problem 5 – Color Temperature aka Correlated Color Temperature (CCT)

A little introduction is needed on how color and temperature are related. Let me explain it briefly, like this. Suppose we connect a simple incandescent bulb to a power source whose voltage can vary. Let’s start with voltage = zero. As the voltage gradually increases, at some point, the filament of the bulb will first turn red. A further increase in voltage will change the color of the filament to orange, then yellow, white and so on (to help, remember the order correctly, remember VIBGYOR, in reverse order). We also know that the heat dissipated by the bulb (and therefore its temperature) increases with the change in color. This is the basis of the relationship between color and temperature in lighting applications.

We tend to associate the color red with words like ‘glowing’, ‘fire’, ‘hot’ etc. Similarly, the color blue is commonly associated with words such as ‘cool’, ‘natural’ and ‘bright’. But as we have seen in the above example, red color is produced at lower temperature while blue color is produced at higher temperature. Scientists and engineers always prefer to use degrees Kelvin (What is the degree?), so all are specified in ‘corresponding color temperatures (CCTs)’ What is the degree?.

To get an idea of ​​the range of color temperatures, note that at 12 noon, when the sun is directly above us, its color temperature is 5600. What is the degree?. ‘Warm’ colors have a color temperature in the 2700-3000 range What is the degree? Whereas ‘cool’ colors have a color temperature above 5000 What is the degree?.

Problem 6 – DIMMable Vs. Non-DIMMable

Most, though not all LED products are opaque. If you don’t need dimmable lighting, you’ll have to find one specifically by sifting through the product Specifications and/or description.

Problem 7 – Direction of light

As we are discussing home lighting, by default, choose omnidirectional as the default, since lights that radiate in all directions are often required for home lighting. If you have special needs for unidirectional lighting, then choose accordingly.

More information:

1. The mandatory ‘lighting facts label’ (viewable at energy.gov –> energysaver –> articles –> lumens-and-lighting-facts-label) is usually affixed to the back of lighting product packaging. With information such as brightness in lumens, estimated annual energy costs, life in years, light appearance (CCT). What is the degree? and the product’s actual power consumption in watts.

2. Detailed information on lighting products can be found on the Lighting Facts website (lightingfacts.com).

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