Error In Is.Formula Formula Could Not Find Function Is.Formula Garage Door Openers – Reviewed

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Garage Door Openers – Reviewed

Class is in progress now….

There are many types of garage door openers, so which one is right for you?? The first thing you need to realize, is that garage door openers are not one size fits all applications. While garage door openers are made to work well if it’s on the right type of door, most of our repairs are done on machines that are either installed incorrectly or the opener is on the wrong type of door, and in many cases just less. Quality opener.

So far I’ve used the words “opener” and “machine” both mean the same thing, they refer to the entire mechanized operation so when I say “opener” I’m referring to the handheld device in your car. This is called “remote control” or simply “remote”. That said, there are many types of garage door openers on the market. There are screw-drives, there are chain-drives there are belt-drives and last but not least direct-drives which are commonly known as “jackshafts”. But let’s take them one at a time and begin…

Screw-drives

These machines have been popular with all types of doors for the better part of 45 years (not necessarily the best) but … due to their design they require regular maintenance. In the late 6Os, 7Os and early 8Os, Genie used more durable steel in the “carriage” or “trolley” and the machines were tough! Even without grease on the screws they would run for what seemed like forever then they switched to mild grade steel and all went downhill, the openers would still go as long as there was any going out if you greased the screws regularly but who does that. !! So the average life of a Jenny screw-drive trolley was about 4-5 years and be it Generous, Liftmaster or Chamberlain or Craftsman, all made by the same mfg… To counter the same problem they use a plastic inner trolley and a self-lubricating housing around the screw. To keep and reduce heat, but the self-lubricating housing really only lasts a year..or the equivalent of your warranty behind it. Same OL, same OL, “Greece-Greece-Greece”. I have an official opinion on screw-drives…stay away from them, they are old technology given a makeover.

Chain drives

Machine screwdrivers of this type have been around for a long time give or take 5 years and they have come a long way. Chain-drives have always been very durable machines, but they got a bit of a bad rap when Sears started selling a model from Chamberlain called the Craftsman, now called a “chain-drive” with a chain on one side and a cable on the other, and nothing seemed to be done to calm it down. Because the cable will be stretched until it breaks in the loop. So from then on chain-drives started getting a bad rap as “coffee-grinders” or noisy machines, even though it wasn’t a true chain-drive.

The Liftmaster 1300 series chain-drives… dollar for dollar are as good a machine as you can get, they are versatile, in that they can handle anything from heavy wood to light steel, one-piece or sectional and any type of door. They’re powerful and cheap and relatively speaking…low maintenance, but they’ve made a lot of nice improvements along the way to get to this point. Chamberlain added a chain spreader that keeps the chain from slapping the rail, swapped the front sprocket for a pulley and greatly reduced chain noise, they switched out the steel worm gear to a nylon worm gear inside the case to reduce heat in the helical gear, and they switched out the inner trolley to reduce door bounce. Two tension springs removed and a solid one-piece rail with a full wrap around chain.

The components on this machine can handle what the motor puts out, so in most cases you don’t need 1/2 HP to lift the door, and as far as regular maintenance..there is virtually none, just two nylons. The gears inside the motor case get lubed every 7 years and that’s it, in the rare case where you own a beach house and only use the opener in the summer then you can spray the chain with a good silicone to keep it in good condition. Links to Chain Free. Two models that I love that have been real workhorses for us over the past two decades are currently called #1346=1/3 hp and #1356=1/2 hp.

Belt-drives

Many manufacturers make belt-drives these days but I like to stick with the most reliable brand which for me is Liftmaster, we carry many brands but prefer to deal with the brand with the least problems so let’s focus on Liftmaster belt-drives. right now Keep in mind that belt-drive openers are very door specific machines, they will not work well or for very long on 1pc doors and should not be installed on 1pc doors. To keep it simple there are two types of belt drives…AC and DC.

The AC model belt-drive, called the Formula I, is one of the earliest model belt-drive designs and essentially has a chain-drive motorhead that drives a belt instead of a chain. It’s much quieter than a chain-drive minus the power and to me…not a great machine, but an easier sell because it’s cheaper than the DC model and the general public doesn’t know the difference, they just know. Belt-drives are considered top of the line and since they are belt-drives, so they are not wise in moves, dealers can buy these types of machines much cheaper than their DC motor counterparts and sell them for a belt-drive (premium) price. What makes a “DC motor” belt-drive quiet is the motor! Why else would they offer it in DC as well, plus another advantage is being able to connect a battery back-up so it will run even when the power is off.

In its simplest form a DC motor produces more torque than an AC motor and DC horsepower is rated in “Newtons” instead of HP but DC motors also have a “slow start/slow stop” feature that helps with overall operation. quiet When an AC motor machine is turned on it goes O-60 or should I say “O to full speed” in one shot… the second you push the button, but the door on the other side is not on the same page and needs it. To resist the sudden force and that’s where most of the noise comes from… basically its door shock resisting the opener, where the slow start of the DC machines acts as a smooth trigger to get the door open. All goes without a jolt, and it does as it does when it stops, so it slows down in the first two inches and the last two inches, which greatly reduces the clunky-ness of the whole action.

DC machines electronically calibrate the pressure required to operate the door based on its resistance and weight,

That leaves little room for installer error, in other words, the installer can’t set the machine to crush your car hood or your cat, AC motors are at the mercy of the installer, if he sets the force adjustment too high, it will crush, if he gets cold or wet The door will bounce again in the morning as you go to work happily unaware that your garage door will be open all day and that brand new handyman tool box you just got for your birthday. It’s going to sell for a fraction of its cost at the local swap meet….all because you thought you got a belt-drive garage door opener at a bargain price!! Final thought…AC motor belt drive = not good (better with chain drive) DC motor belt drive = very good, very quiet, but very door specific. (Works on sectional doors only)

jack-shaft (Direct Drive)

This section is simple because there is literally only one available and its Liftmaster #3800, and it will only work on sectional doors. So for those of you looking for a machine that doesn’t mount to the ceiling like a traditional machine, the Liftmaster #3800 may be what you’re looking for, its quiet, (800 Newtons) or equivalent to 3/. 4 hp and mounts on both sides of the torsion tube if you have at least 10 inches of side clearance, so the idea behind this opener is that if you have room above the garage, it completely eliminates… the vibration of a normal opener that hangs from the ceiling, Or if your garage has a low beam that supports the second floor of your home or has a loft or storage shelving installed where a normal opener is mounted you can still automate your door using this type. machine.

It can also be used in applications where you don’t just want to hang an opener in the middle of your garage. I’ve found over the years that the #3800 prefers the lighter non-insulated models vs the heavier sectional doors, another. The advantage of this type of machine is that it lifts the sectional door up to 13 feet without any modifications whereas the normal machine only lifts the door up to 7’4″ with a normal railed machine, you may need to get a longer rail to accommodate. 8′–9′ Or the extra height of the 10 foot tall opening that is becoming more common in new homes.The Liftmaster #3800 has been a very reliable choice for us since 2004.

Everyone likes choices, but when it comes to garage door openers there really are so many options that it can be very easy to make the wrong choice for your particular garage door which can lead to many future service calls and repairs. Hopefully this clears some things up for you when it comes to choosing the right machine and you will have more “good” ups and downs with the right system.

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